What Is Hula? The Dance That Holds Hawaii's Memory

Hula is the traditional dance of Hawaii — but calling it a "dance" undersells it. Before Hawaiian was a written language, hula was the hard drive: a way to record genealogies, legends, place names, and history in motion and chant, then pass them down body to body across generations.

So when you watch hula, you're not watching decoration. You're watching a story being told in a language of movement, where the hands matter as much as the words. Here's what hula actually is, the two main styles, and where to see it done with respect rather than a fog machine.

What's in this guide

• What hula actually is
• Hula kahiko vs hula auana
• The halau and the kumu
• Banned, then brought back
• Where to see real hula
• Hula FAQ

Photo: Michal Pechardo on Unsplash

What hula actually is

Underneath, hula is storytelling through movement, performed to words — either a chant (oli) or a song (mele). The dancer's hands and body don't just keep time; they illustrate the text. A sweep of the arms can be a wave, a wind, a mountain, a longing. Learn the gestures and a hula becomes legible, like sign language set to rhythm.

That's the key shift for a visitor: hula is tied to language. The motions mean specific things because the words mean specific things. A dance about rain falling on a particular valley is, quite literally, about rain falling on that valley — not a generic "tropical vibe."

This is why hula is treated as sacred and serious, not as a party trick. It carried a people's memory when nothing was written down.

Hula kahiko vs hula auana

There are two broad styles, and once you can tell them apart, every performance gets more interesting.

Hula kahiko is the ancient form — the hula that predates Western contact. It's danced to chant and traditional percussion: the ipu (gourd drum), the pahu (sharkskin drum), and implements like split-bamboo puili or smooth stones. The mood is powerful and grounded, the costuming made from natural materials like kapa cloth and ti leaf. It can feel solemn because, often, it is.

Hula auana is the modern form that emerged after Western contact, roughly from the late 1800s on. It's danced to melodic music — ukulele, guitar, standing bass, and sung mele, sometimes in English. The movements are softer and flowing, the costuming the muumuu-and-flowers look most visitors picture. "Auana" means to wander or drift, which fits its gentler, more lyrical feel.

Neither is "fake." Auana is simply hula that absorbed new instruments the way any living tradition adapts.

The halau and the kumu

Hula is learned in a halau — a hula school — under a kumu hula, a master teacher who has often trained for decades and been formally recognized to teach. The relationship is closer to a martial-arts lineage than a dance class: protocol, discipline, chant, plant knowledge, and history all come with the steps.

A kumu hula carries responsibility for the integrity of what's passed on. That's why a roadside "learn hula in 10 minutes" gimmick and a halau's life work are different universes, even if both involve hips moving. The depth is the point.

Banned, then brought back

Here's the history that explains a lot of the reverence. After Protestant missionaries arrived in 1820, hula was discouraged and effectively suppressed for decades as "heathen." It survived quietly, in private, kept alive by people who refused to let it die.

Then King David Kalakaua — nicknamed the "Merrie Monarch" — championed a public revival in the 1870s-80s, famously saying hula is the language of the heart and therefore the heartbeat of the Hawaiian people. That revival is why hula is thriving today.

His legacy lives on in the Merrie Monarch Festival, held in Hilo every spring (the week after Easter). It's the most prestigious hula competition in the world, and watching it — halau after halau performing kahiko and auana at the highest level — is the single best crash course in what hula really is.

Where to see real hula

You don't have to crash a halau to see authentic hula. A few honest tiers:

• Merrie Monarch Festival (Hilo, spring) — the pinnacle. Tickets are scarce, but it's broadcast and streamed; watching from your couch still beats most live shows.
• Free community hula — many towns, museums (like Bishop Museum on Oahu), and cultural centers host real performances by local halau. Ask around or check community calendars.
• Luau shows — these range from genuine to theatrical. The better ones feature trained dancers and explain what you're watching; treat them as an enjoyable introduction, not the deep end.

Wherever you watch, the etiquette is simple: be present, hold the chatter, and don't treat dancers like a photo backdrop. A little respect is the whole aloha.

If you're planning the trip around culture and food, our Big Island travel guide covers Hilo (home of Merrie Monarch), and we keep more Hawaii culture and food explainers in the Journal. We style beach picnics and events on Oahu — but the culture belongs to everyone who approaches it with respect, not a credit card.

Hula FAQ

What is hula in simple terms?

Hula is the traditional Hawaiian dance that tells stories through movement, performed to chant or song. Every gesture has meaning, illustrating the words — it was Hawaii's way of recording history, genealogy, and legend before there was a written language.

What are the two types of hula?

Hula kahiko is the ancient style, danced to chant and traditional percussion like the ipu gourd and pahu drum. Hula auana is the modern style that developed after Western contact, danced to melodic songs with instruments like the ukulele and guitar.

What is a halau and a kumu hula?

A halau is a hula school, and a kumu hula is its master teacher — someone who has trained for years and earned the standing to teach. Hula is passed down through this lineage, along with chant, history, and protocol.

Why was hula banned?

After Protestant missionaries arrived in 1820, hula was suppressed for decades as improper. It survived in private until King David Kalakaua, the "Merrie Monarch," led a public revival in the 1870s-80s, restoring it to Hawaiian life.

Where can I see authentic hula?

The Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo each spring is the world's premier hula competition (broadcast and streamed). Beyond that, look for free community performances at museums and cultural centers, and choose luau shows that use trained dancers and explain the meaning behind each dance.